Posted by Jason Lakin
Dispatch from Mexico
Sinaloa*
Nobody lives here anymore. Whole towns, completely abandoned. The only sounds: creaking doors, padlocked, when the wind surfs through, a few birds that hover and then abscond, the silence of a dreary sun peering through indolent clouds.
The families have left. The violence was too much. Bodies mutilated, decapitated, gunned down in busy streets at midday, floating in rivers, stinking behind garages, flapping in the breeze slumped over car window ledges (the windows were up, before, but are now smashed, the remaining glass jagged, and delicately placed in bloody fragments).
This would be hell. Except it’s empty.
Elections were this past Sunday. No one was allowed to drink, because election day is a dry day. Everything was closed so the citizens of tomorrow could put on their Sunday best, and head to the polls.
Except here. Here, there were no polls. This is one of ten communities in the south of the northern Mexican state of Sinaloa that did not vote on Sunday. Mostly because there are hardly any people left. And also because those who have stayed are too afraid to vote anyway.
Voting, like walking down the street to buy a bag of maize flour, might get you killed.
Welcome to democracy, narco style. Where the gangs rule, and the citizens cower. Where the police and the military are authorized to keep the peace, and everyone else is authorized to try their best not to get caught in the middle.
Good luck.
Sinaloa is not the poorest state in Mexico. Indeed, it has only 60 percent as many people as Chiapas, but its economy is about a sixth larger. It is a middling state when it comes to development, compared to Chiapas or Oaxaca, which are in last place. If you can stay away from the narcos, it is not such a bad place to live.
Good luck. Read the rest of this entry »